Distance = 26km Total =481km Smell Factor = 2/10
We knew we had a long few days ahead and that we had to make a river crossing at low tide in the afternoon so we made good progress in the morning. Much of the morning and afternoon was on beach again which meant one thing, SAND!!! This time however, it wasn't so bad. Perhaps it was the knowledge that it wasn't 90 miles of sand, or maybe, we are now experts at dealing with the ruddy stuff but we blitzed the miles on the beach. We reached the crossing at exactly low tide and annoyingly it was still just too deep to do in boots. Because of the way this trail has been put together we obviously then headed straight up a really steep hill. We decided to camp once we had reached the top and it wasn't long before we regretted the decision. Once the sun had set the temperature plummeted and I knew it wasn't going to be a good nights sleep.... The Turner
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Distance: 10km. Total: 435km. Smell factor: 2/10.
Im not going to brag about our walking progress today because that was minamul. However, our drinking efforts were solid. Our friends intriduced us to some of their friends at a remote batch. They took us to town to collect beer in style. Nine of us squeezed into a humble toyota campervan and took a death ride down a very sketchy and steep track. Yes, Very irresonible, but, it was very funny sat on the floor of this camper being thrown around. After surviving human pinball we spent the night next to a roaring fire in high spirits. We drank and played stupid cards games all night. And, for once, Luke was not sick! The Hobbit. Distance = 13km Total = 425km Smell factor = 3/10
Without planning to we arrived at the campsite last night to find the group were also staying there. The camp site was right on the beach so I set my alarm for nice and early to catch the sunrise. It did not disappoint and so Tom and I sat in the freezing cold for over an hour as the sky changed through all colours of the spectrum. It was simply stunning. We eventually packed up and headed out a bit behind the others but it was nice to get back to our rhythm, even if only for a day. After resupplying at Whangarei our bags were full of food and therefore exceptionally heavy, the heaviest so far. It wasn't going to be a long day and along with the fact that Tom's left arm kept going numb (nothing to worry about) we took our time. We still reached the campsite around 3 ish and pitched up near the others. Tom & I headed to the beach, another stunner. There were some pretty big waves which made trying not to die quite good fun. A couple of the guys friends came up for the evening so with a few beers and some snacks we went back to the beach around 9. Once again it was nice to be social and make the most of being with the group. The Turner The previous day's endeavours had broken us so it's easy to sum up these two days;
- We slept - We ate - We blogged - We bathed (separately!) ( SEPARATE TENTS!!!) - We slept some more - We ate lots more The Turner 'Through the clouds'
Distance: 19km. Total: 398km. Smell factor: 6/10. Luke and I walked down the beach this morning with our goal looming in front of us. Cloud was spilling over its edges and it's summits hidden in the heavens. We walked through the drizzle protected by our waterproof gear. This was the first day that the weather had remained constantly bad since starting the trail. We had been quite lucky. We reached the end of the beach and the base of Mt Lion and began the climb. We quickly realised that despite having a relatively slow week we needed another rest. It had been seven days since our last day off; legs were burning before long and I felt I was in need of a good feed to recharge my batteries. Nevertheless, we did what we do and plodded on. The path continued to climb steeply and we were teased by the adjacent road that simply cut through the valley to our end point. Sweat was pouring off both of us now and we stopped often to catch our breath, recover quickly, and then carry on. We entered the cloud and any views became obscured. Up and up we went until eventually we reached the first summit. On a normal day we imagined the views would be incredible across the bay of islands. Sadly, we could only see 20 metres in front of us. We continued through this damp weather and over the other peaks using the rutted and slippy track. We dropped back below and felt the heavier rain once we were under the cloud and onto the next bay. It was a shame not to get those breathtaking views. However, sometimes the grittier days are those you remember best. The memories of trudging on and tackling hurdles without reward. Regardless, it was another day's progress towards our ultimate goal and another unique experience to add to the memory bank. The Hobbit. Distance =14km Total =379km Smell Factor = 2/10
It was back on with the gaiters to cross the initial muddy swamp section of the morning. The estuary reminded me of Blakeny or Morston at low tide. We had to de-boot for a short but fairly deep stream crossing which meant we all had very muddy feet by the time we reached the bank. I took a while to re-boot (I wish it was as simple as turning myself off and then on again) due to my mangled feet. I spent about half an hour in surgery but was pretty pleased with my work. I currently have a little toe with a blister which is on a blister which is on a blister (the inception of blisters)! Towards the end of the day we found ourselves back on a beach, this one was not 90 miles but there was sand and you know how much we love that stuff. There was another small stream to cross and annoyingly it was too deep to do in boots, my time in surgery this morning was completely undone in ten wet steps. We found a great campsite which had a nice sheltered space with a couple of long benches. We made full use of these in the evening, playing cards and listening to music with the group. Brining the cards has been a good decision and has made for a few really good nights, a far better use to weight ratio than Tom's favourite frisbee. The Turner 'Off the beaten track'
Distance = 14km walked (gained 29) Total = 365 Smell Factor = 2/10 Still full from the incredible dinner the night before we headed to our first river crossing. Becky, Jason and the kids came with us so we had a total of eleven people to get across on two kayaks, and at least one person couldn't swim. We set up a bit of a ferry system where two people would go across and one would then paddle back with the other kayak in tow. This took a little bit of time as the river was quite wide and the current was strong. We managed to double up on a couple of the crossings to save time. Tom and I crossed last, having already crossed a few times, and decided to double up (still separate tents!!!). Having kindly paddled us both across the little hobbit jumped out first and flipped the kayak with me still on! What else would a good friend do?! The water was lovely so I didn't mind all that much. We walked for an hour out on this spit, it was like paradise. A beautiful white sandy beach, with crystal clear turquoise water lapping the shore. The odd rocky island raising out of the sea with an abundance of lush green forest covering it. We could have been on some sort of Avatar / Lost film set, and the best part was we were the only ones there. We headed slightly inland and made our way through some private land, passing the sign which read 'trespassers will be prosecuted'. It was easy going as we didn't have our packs on, Becky would meat us later in the day with these. The next river crossing was not so simple, especially as we were without kayaks. Mario (the non swimmer) would have to learn on the job and was quite literally thrown in to the deep end. We walked up and down the river bank looking for the best place to cross. Unfortunately the narrowest point was also the deepest and most choppy. Once we had chosen our spot Vaughn and Maddie went first and were closely followed by Julian and Pauline. That meant Tom and I could help Mario across. Our surroundings were incredible, the brilliant blue water was cold and the current strong. With the mid day sun beating down on us and not a cloud in the sky we managed to get half way before we had to swim. It was a tough crossing even for a strong swimmer so if I were wearing a hat I would have tipped it to Mario for going for it. As a trio we made it across safely, I kept us afloat whilst Tom pushed us to the river bank. Mario was clearly very proud of making it across, an achievement the whole group recognised. We gathered our breath and let the adrenaline settle a bit before carrying on. We then crossed fields and had to jump a few electric fences to continue in the right direction, one of these giving me a pretty good shock. The last couple of kilometres were tough going and boggy, all good fun in sandals. We could see the road but had to cross one last field, the muddiest of them all with a small beck to cross at the very end. At one point I lost a sandal to the mud so I gave up and went bare foot. With feet and sandals plastered with mud, cow poo, and god knows what else we reached a very nice looking cafe. No one had any money so we could only drool at the site of the food. The customers couldn't stop staring at this rag tag group of muddy weirdos who were cleaning their feet in a bucket of water. It was a great day and we had managed to save ourselves a few kilometres, this might not have been the official Te Araroa trail but it certainly embodied the spirit of the trail and we were able to see parts of New Zealand few people ever will. What a day! The Turner Distance: 13km. Total: 337km. Smell factor: 5/10.
We split from the group today and rejoined them that evening. Maddie's sister and her family were staying at a batch (holiday home) in Ngunguru and the offer had been kindly extended to us. On arrival we were immediately handed a beer. This was going well! Half an hour later we were showered and sat around the table eating steak, sausages and chicken wings accompanied by delicious salads. We had struck gold. The Maori gods were smiling on us. The Hobbit. Distance: 12km. Total: 324km. Smell factor: 2/10.
We have probably been a bit relaxed this week and consequently made slower progress than anticipated. It has actually worried us very little, because, as a result, we have had a fantastic week. Up until now, our walking bubble has been very focused and routined. Rising early, walk, eat, sleep, repeat. This week we have broken out of that structure to monopolise on the company of our new companions. The routines and days off of our different teams will inevitably vary and eventually discontinue our current meetings; albeit temporarily. Luke and I could opt to entirely adapt and match our routine to our new friends, however, we are keen not to do this. We are acutely aware that their aims and habits are different to our own. When it is just the two of us it is easy to balance both our needs. Balancing the needs of seven is a whole different scenario. We seem to have achieved the perfect balance. Some days we have walked with the group. Other days we have walked alone as usual, to then reconvene with the group in the evening. Today we did the latter. It was Luke's turn to have a tough morning and for the Maori gods to turn on him. We combatted this intelligently by pigging out at the dairy (shop/cafe). Eventually, we took to the trail and crossed todays landmark; the world's longest foot bridge. The evening was spent with the group again allowing for a spontaneous game of hacky sack on the beach and an exploration around another beautiful bay. In the future, we are keen to continue this approach with these friends or any new people we meet; retaining our independence whilst also taking the time to appreciate the new company and experiences. Nevertheless, whilst keeping this in mind, we will need to pick up the pace if we hope to achieve both islands with some time to spare. It has, however, been a welcomed change in this week's routine, especially in light of recent struggles. The Hobbit. |
Blog updated until Day 93.
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