Distance = 21km Total = 312km Smell Factor = 3/10
The sunrise was incredible and it started what was to be a beautiful sunny, blue sky day. The bay was amazing, with the sunlight shimmering on the calm waters, it looked like a million flickering candles. It was hard to leave such a beautiful place, so we took our time getting ready. The walking was uneventful so no details are required. We made it to the local shop just in time and Mario did a great job of stalling whilst we all caught up. Having spent quite a bit of money on food and beer we went to the campsite next door and enjoyed our purchases. In the evening we thoroughly enjoyed the beers with everyone and played cards with the guys. Until a small scruffy Maori came over, placed a large bottle of Bourbon, a bottle of Coke, and a bag of ice in front of us and said "we need to finish this" to Tom, Mario, and myself. We took him up on the offer (only having a couple) and we talked with him for a while. A random but enjoyable evening, normal for New Zealand. The Turner
0 Comments
Distance: 17km. Total: 291km. Smell factor: 3/10.
Today we met a new group of TA trampers. Three kiwis; Mario, Vaughn and Maddie tramping with Julian and Pauline from France. We camped with them in the most beautiful spot so far. The freedom camp overlooked Helena bay with instant access to the beach. Luke immediately de-booted and soaked his gnarly feet and ankle; he had been a little limpy that day. I joined the crab hunting party heading for the rocks. We spent much of that evening attempting to spear crabs using rudimental spears with varing success. A acceptable total of five crabs were caught. We boiled the legs and nibbled on the little meat we had fought to find. I was particularly proud of my contribution after swiftly stabbing a crab with just my pocket knife. I got named stabby Tom that night. Stabby Tom. Distance: 24km (9km by boat/car to cross the inlet and rejoin the trail). Total: 274km. Smell factor: 3/10.
So today the walking was largely uneventful and uninspiring for you as readers. However, our campsite gifted us a brilliantly bizarre evening. The place was called The Farm. It was split into two halves; one was a traditional campsite setup with a shared kitchen, outdoor space, and showers. The other half had similar shared amenities but was instead accompanied by a collection of jumbled outhouses, battered caravans and rusty buses. Because the first half of the campsite was being used for a school party, we were asked to camp in the second half. We pitched our tents and quickly worked out that these outbuildings were the residences of various individuals and the owners of the farm. We appeared to be staying at some sort of commune? We were invited to join the hosts and their community for a cup of tea in their shared living space. We agreed; curious to find out more, whilst also scared to say no to this eccentric man. We walked into the house, past the sleeping pet pig, and joined them. We were fed ice cream, given tea and talked normally for some time. What came next was rather unexpected. The hosts ushered us through to join the school party insisting we partake in their game. The game was called Wolfpack. Luke and I were split into the two groups (Wolfpacks) and then guided up two separate hills in the pitch black. The name of the game was to hunt the other team in the dark. Each Wolfpack had to remain together and howl sporadically to indicate their position. The howl was then reciprocated by the other pack. Slowly and strategically drawing in on each other, the winner was the first to successfully shine the spotlight on the other pack. So, picture this; Luke and I, in our sandals, crawling around in cow fields and through gorse bushes, howling like wolves with twenty other school children. To add to the absurdity, the team leader turned to Luke's group and said " we slaughter animals on the farm, so watch out for the ofal pits". As a result of this random event and distinct lack of health and safety, we are coining the term 'normal for New Zealand'! Oh and Luke's team won the game. Bugger. The Hobbit. Distance = 0km Total = 245km Smell Factor = 0/10
Today was not Tom's day! Following a tough morning we decided to be real tourists and soak up some culture by visiting the Waitangi Treaty grounds. It wasn't cheap but well worth the money. We learnt about the history of the country and the traditions of the Maori culture. The Waitangi treaty was a document signed by the tribal leaders and the British representatives to make sure relations between the two could be positive, many see it as the birth place of New Zealand as we know it today. The traditional Maori performance was amazing and we sat in awe as they performed songs and dances, there was even a Haka! In the afternoon we headed to the beach and finally made use of the frisbee Tom had carried all 245km to this point. We threw the frisbee a total of about ten times before it snapped in half following a naff throw from Tom. He was not best pleased, as I mentioned it was stacking up not to be his day. He had carried it all that way for ten throws, it was also his favourite frisbee (every 23 year old has a favourite frisbee right?). The evening slightly made up for this as we met up with an American couple doing the trail and had a few beers at a nice bar. We later found out that that street and potentially that bar was known for being the gay capital of the northland. This didn't help our case. We did also squeeze in a game of cards, which Tom lost; the Maori gods were really not smiling on him at all that day. The Turner Distance 22km. Total: 245km. Smell factor:1/10
Dare I say it, but today was actually quite straightforward. Yes, you are correct, I said straightforward. We walked out of KeriKeri bound for the seaside town of Pahia in the Bay of Islands. The track meandered through a pine forest, eventually reaching a little peak overlooking the bay. Not a mud pit or killer bush in sight. We later arrived at the campsite well ahead of schedule. This left plenty of time for a trip to the pub. Consequently, I'm delighted to actually write a pleasant and painless blog post. Long may they continue. The Hobbit. Distance = 0km Total = 223km Smell factor = 0/10
With clean clothes and a smell factor of 0 we arrived at Tony & Claire's around 4ish. It was a lovely house tucked away down a quite driveway. From the moment Claire answered the door we were made to feel most welcome and at home. Their generosity was endless for the two days we were with them. They taught me a lot in those two days about humanity and how we should treat one another. When you are on the receiving end of such actions it is quite humbling, and after the fortnight we had endured on the trail their kindness could not have been more welcomed. The simple act of sitting at a table to eat dinner and then swap stories with each other was most appreciated and enjoyed; especially with such a lovely family. On the first night they cooked us roast lamb. Roast flipping lamb! After all the naff meals we had been eating on the beach and in the forests you can imagine how amazing this was. Then, to top it all off perfectly, an apple and rhubarb crumble for dessert. All of this followed by a very comfortable sleep made for a very happy Luke when I woke. When you are the other side of the world from your own family, to be part of and invited into another family (even if only for two days) did wonders for my spirits. On the second evening we enjoyed home cooked burgers with all the trimmings, again greatly appreciated, and watched a film (The worlds fastest Indian). It was very difficult to say goodbye when we had to get back to the walking stuff. The endless and selfless generosity of these 'strangers' was incredible. Truly lovely people, who shared their lives with two foreigners from the other side of the world. An example to us all of how an act of random kindness can have such a positive affect on someone. I only hope I can one day do the same for someone. The Turner I have thought this many times before, as I am sure most people have. That odd moment in time when you can't quite fathom why you made the decisions which have bought you to this place. This feeling hit me like a rock to the back of the head (and yes I know what that feels like thanks to my sister) on Monday night (Day 9). Pitched up in a cow field in a beautiful valley looking back across lush green rolling hills. It was raining hard, the temperature was dropping and the wind picking up. Then pop went my sleeping pad! The small comfort I had was gone. That's when it hit me hard... 'What am I doing?!' Little more than a bag for life to protect me from the elements, everything damp from condensation, the majority of my body aching from a tough 9 days on the trail, and now sleeping on the cold ground. I am thousands of miles from the most supportive family you could ask for and to top it all off I have just pooped in a field. I chose this, I chose to be here. Why? All in the name of adventure? To find some inner philosophical understanding of myself? No one had forced me to do this, there was no gun being pointed at my head. I had left a lot back home to be here, I knew this would not be easy and that was the point. In that moment I missed my old life, I missed wearing a clean white shirt and brogues to work, I missed feeling clean, I missed Mum's Sunday Roast, but above all I missed my bed! But I was there in that field and I had chosen to be there. I had to deal with it, and then I realised that was it. This was why I was here, because I can be. I can be the other side of the world and I can deal with the discomfort. I wasn't running away from that old life of comfort but towards adventure and this was it! All of these thoughts swirling around my head as the wind and rain lashed my tent (bag for life). I had the freedom to be here and the freedom to live my life as I wanted. This might all seem deep and philosophical but remember, I had just pooped in a field.
The Turner Distance = 25km Total = 223km Smell Factor = 1/10
I woke to bright sunshine with a chill in the air. I used the sun to try to dry boots, socks etc. The Belgian's had also made it to the camp so we talked with them as we packed up. We knew it was still quite a way to Kerikeri but it was easy walking so we just plodded along. I walked in my sandals as my boots were still damp. By the afternoon the previous few days had really caught up on us and we returned to our zombie state. The thought of food, beer, and a bed to sleep in kept me going. We walked beside a river for the last few hours and passed some gorgeous houses. The river led us to a beautiful waterfall and then on in to Kerikeri. After one final (killer) hill we were here. We could see Pizza Hut, it pulled us in like a magnet. We ordered 3 large pizzas, 3 sides, and 2 cokes. Broken we sat and scoffed down most of it, receiving some funny looks from other customers. We took one pizza back to our cabin. We put as much of our stuff as possible in the wash, I had the most wonderful hot shower whilst Tom went to buy beer. We drank, played cards, and listened to music until our eyes would no longer stay open. What a week, what a fortnight. Now it was time to rest, and bloody hell it felt good. The Turner Distance: 25km Total: 198km
Smell factor 10/10 This was a day of extremes. The start of the day was just gorgeous. The trail was the river. This involved wading from shoal to shoal in brilliantly clear water for some time. At one point we stopped and jumped in a cold pool and cooled off. The forest was finaling delivering enjoyment in that exact moment rather than retrospective enjoyment. So, as you can imagine when the 'easy' forest became a dangerous cambered ridgeline with little grip and many opportunities for death we weren't best pleased. Luke and I would start slipping towards the 20 metre drop beside us praying that we found some tread. I'm pretty sure a little wee came out. After that emotional ordeal all I needed was good food and good coffee. Unfortunately, they don't have Cafés in the forest; very unreasonable I know. So I spent the whole day dreaming about food. The chocolate spread and peanut butter wraps weren't hacking it anymore. Wait, at least I would get a hot shower at the campsite we were aiming for. Oh no wait, it's cold rainwater shower. F**k. The hobbit. Distance = 18km Total = 172km Smell Factor = 4/10
After the pain of the previous day's exploits neither of were in a hurry to get going. The sun was shining bright, burning off the heaven morning due and creating a mystical haze all around. We really could have been in middle earth. We used the sun shine to dry our stuff and hung as much as we could on the washing line we found. We both made the most of the stream again (not in that way, separate tents!). We knew there was some sort of shop on the route today so that was our focus. 5km in and there it was, heaven on the side of the road. No pearly gates but it was heaven alright. On a normal day we would pass it without a second thought but after yesterday and the previous few days it was everything we needed. We were both like kids in a sweet shop, not knowing what to buy first. Coke, orange juice, a coffee for Tom, bacon and egg burgers, chips, and an ice cream later all was good with the world again. We sat for nearly two hours with Yans and Ellen (the Belgian's), Scott and Mandy also joined us. Full to the brim we pushed on again, almost drunk on the food we had just consumed. We camped at a very basic site along with Scott, Mandy, Yans, and Ellen. We sat out for a while talking and being bitten to buggery. No mud today, what bliss. Sleeping pad still broken though. The Turner |
Blog updated until Day 93.
Last update Day 71. Archives |